Jasper Morris MW: “Fresh mid lemon. A more discreet nose than Montpalais, but clearly with intensity behind. Crisp white fruit, excellent poise, a touch of liquorice too, plenty of flesh but just really well made, with decent length. Drink from 2024-2027.” ****

In October 2002, Hélène Jaeger-Defaix acquired her first vineyard in Rully 1er cru Mont-Palais white from her great-aunt Henriette Niepce. This plot is part of a winery located entirely in Rully 1er cru for both white and red wines. Hélène aims to fully manage this estate in the future, continuing the winemaking tradition of the Niepce family, who have been winemakers since the 16th century.

Henri Niepce, Hélène’s great-grandfather, played a significant role in obtaining the ‘AOC’ for Rully in the 1930s, contributing to its subsequent reputation. The estate comprises 4.50 ha in Rully 1er cru: ‘Mont-Palais,’ ‘Les Cloux,’ and ‘Rabourcé’ for white wines; ‘Préaux’ and ‘Clos du Chapitre’ for red wines. Additionally, they work on 1.50 ha in AC Rully.

The domaine transitioned to organic farming in 2009. Hélène, an agricultural engineer and oenologist, collaborates with her husband Didier Defaix, a winemaker in Chablis (Domaine Bernard Defaix). The estate’s focus is on producing rich and full white wines and meticulously crafted and refined Pinot Noirs. Achieving affordability and top quality in Burgundy is a challenge, but the domaine consistently sells out each year for a reason.