Burgundy is famed for its precision and terroir-driven wines. But producers may soon be forbidden from including the name of a sub-climat (named plot or lieu-dit) on Grand Cru labels – even though this has long been common practice. A stricter interpretation of the rules now threatens to put an end to this tradition.
According to Burgundy expert Jasper Morris MW, it will no longer be allowed to use labels such as Echezeaux En Orveau or Le Charlemagne. Only Corton is exempt, as its original decrees specifically authorized names like Corton Renardes or Corton Perrières. Morris calls the decision regrettable: if a lieu-dit is officially recorded in the cadastre, it should be permitted on the label. He does agree, however, that in the case of Clos Vougeot – where plot names have never been formally registered – it's a different story.
Our view:
We share this concern, especially in major Grand Crus such as Echezeaux, where quality can vary greatly depending on the plot, the mention of a lieu-dit offers real added value. For example, we work with Domaine Michel Noëllat, who owns vines in Echezeaux Du Dessus – a prime parcel just above Grands-Echezeaux. Why should this not be allowed on the label?
Even in Clos Vougeot , we believe names like Grand Maupertuis – a historically respected sector – are worth mentioning when they consistently produce high-quality wine. And what about Clos Saint-Denis or Clos de la Roche? These Grand Crus have been expanded over the years with adjacent vineyards. In such cases, indicating the original parcel would help the consumer understand the wine better.
In short: terroir is Burgundy’s soul. Let’s keep naming it.
