Battenfeld Spanier Spätburgunder “Holzfass” Trocken 2019

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This domain in Rheinhessen works completely organically and is among the absolute best in this most dynamic German wine region. Very nice wines at friendly prices.
Contact with newish wood (in 500-liter format) has not been kind to this bottling. Pinot Blanc’s natural creaminess shades into a slightly awkward combination of resinous impingement and milkiness. But there is still a lot to like, with apple and almond dominating both nose and palate. Happily, ample primary juiciness comes through to guarantee a refreshing finish. Still, this lacks the animation, textural allure, or (above all) the savory dimension that rendered its ostensibly lesser counterpart from this vintage so successful. Nor do I anticipate it being the better ager – on the contrary. Typically, in instances like this, wood alleged as “structural support” that needs time to integrate but is then conducive to longevity. But in my experience, that seldom happens. I’ve little doubt that Gillot and Spanier picked superior raw materials to inform this bottling, so I wish I could have experienced a wine resulting from the same upbringing that their into-level Pinot Blanc received.
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