Laurent’s 2019 Cuvée Saint-Urbain is also a particularly fine white Marsannay with a crystal-clear bouquet, a fairly intense, full-bodied flavour and long finish, and given my experience with previous years, I am very confident that it will develop longer than Neal Martin thinks!

Inside Burgundy – Jasper Morris MW: “Just off its fining and racked. Quite a deep yellow colour. The bouquet shows an evident ripeness. Baked apples and fresh quinces, kept fresher by a little reduction and adequate acidity behind. Just being treated at the moment so not on best form. Saline finish. Drink from 2025-2027.” ***